This dusty little mining town is on the
puna 168km west of Salta, and over 2600m above it. It’s suffered
greatly since the deterioration of the region’s mining and
associated railway, and relies heavily on tourism and the stop-start
Tren a las Nubes for income. It’s a very typical highland
settlement, with adobe houses, almost deserted streets, and a serious
drop in temperature as soon as the sun goes down. It’s not the
place for cutting-edge nightlife or street art, but is worth stopping
in to get the feel of this facet of Argentine and South American
life. You can head north from here to the Quebrada de Humahuaca via
the Salinas Grandes and Purmamarca, but the road south to Cachi is
very tough.
In colonial times, transportation from
northwestern Argentina depended on pack trains; one route passed
through here, crossing the rugged elevations of the Puna de Atacama
to the Pacific and then on to Lima. It was a rugged journey, taking
20 days to cover the 800km.
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