Plaza Serrano, that bohemian chic



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  Julieta Fraguío 14/06/2016

Located In the heart of Palermo, the area was the cradle of writers and artists. After being recycled, it became a design pole innovative with venues and fairs everywhere.

How protagonists of the modernization of Palermo Viejo, Plaza Serrano and its surroundings today are the epicenter of the Buenosairean movida. Your bohemian landscape of old houses and sunny sidewalks was recycled to become a design pole, where bars proliferate, art galleries and author venues. With these new winds, in recent decades the neighborhood and its concrete square rejuvenated to look like scenery, although the air of yesteryear is still visible among its passages and paving stones.

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Located between Jorge L. Borges streets (previously called Serrano) and Honduras, the renamed Plazoleta Julio Cortázar has known how to be a redoubt of writers and, above all, artists. In fact, on weekends painting and sculpture stands operate on its perimeter, which are spread to surrounding areas with street art. As if an open-air gallery, on the business and residential facades graffiti, stencils and murals can be seen.

Also, between exclusive shops for decoration, accessories, furniture and clothing of independent and famous brands, installed since the end of the nineties, “la placita” also offers crafts, while the pubs surrounding are transformed into clothing fairs on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

The avant-garde and innovation in all areas does not exclude bars or restaurants. Some of them are hidden, others just sight, but if there is something that commons them is that each one has its imprint, not only on the style, but also on their drinks and gastronomy.


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5 MARKETS IN BUENOS AIRES

Unlike many other countries, Argentina's gastronomic offerings are vast in their variety of foods, products, and beverages. The air of tradition, of years of homemade meals, fills the air as you walk through any corner of a Buenos Aires neighborhood.

 

With these deeply rooted customs, it is common to find many markets in the provinces. In these markets, one can appreciate the heritage that has been passed down year after year. From Spanish ingredients, such as Iberian ham, to Italian ones, such as Reggiano cheese. To help you make excellent purchases and enjoy even better outings, here are our recommendations in Buenos Aires.

 

History

 

In colonial times, markets in Argentina were for the supply of food and consumer goods. The main squares of the cities, such as Plaza de Mayo, served as centers for commercial exchange. Agricultural, livestock, and artisanal products were sold there.

 

In 1816, with Argentina's independence and urban growth, markets began to be established in an organized manner. Buenos Aires, as the main port and largest city in the country, saw the emergence of permanent establishments to meet the growing demand of the population.

 

The wave of European immigration at the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century had a great impact on the economy and culture of Argentina. The offerings expanded in every sense, thus providing a greater variety of products and services.

 

It was during the mid-20th century that markets continued to be crucial places for local trade. On the other hand, the emergence of supermarkets and large distribution chains began to change the landscape of retail trade.

 

 

Five Recommendations

 

San Telmo Market 

 

Located in the historic neighborhood of San Telmo in Buenos Aires, Argentina, it is an icon of Buenos Aires culture and a vibrant center of activity since its opening in 1897. Originally conceived as a market for local residents' provisions, it soon became a fundamental meeting point for traders and neighbors alike. Over the years, it has withstood fires and urban changes, emerging as a popular tourist destination thanks to its cast iron architecture and stalls offering everything from fresh and gourmet products to antiques and crafts. Today, the market not only represents an essential part of Buenos Aires' cultural heritage but also a place where history, gastronomy, and the bohemian spirit of San Telmo converge.

 

 

Abasto Market

 

The Abasto Market of Buenos Aires, inaugurated in the early 20th century, stands as a bastion of daily life and urban culture in the Argentine capital. Originally conceived as a food distribution center to supply the city's growing population, it quickly transformed into a vital meeting point where traders, workers, and Buenos Aires families converged. Its imposing structure of iron and glass not only housed bustling stalls of fruits, meats, and vegetables but also cafes and venues where lively conversations and significant commercial transactions of the time took place. Over time, the Abasto Market became an emblem of Buenos Aires' cultural diversity, reflecting the influence of migratory waves that shaped the urban identity.

 

 

San Cristóbal Market

 

Located in the heart of the San Cristóbal neighborhood in Santiago de Chile, the San Cristóbal Market is a vibrant hub of activity blending history, tradition, and gastronomy. Since its establishment in the late 19th century, it has been a crucial meeting point for local residents, offering fresh products, exotic spices, and typical crafts that reflect Chile's cultural diversity. With its characteristic iron and glass architecture, the market is not only a place for daily shopping but also a space where one can experience the authenticity of Santiago's urban life. Over the years, the San Cristóbal Market has evolved to adapt to social and economic changes, maintaining its position as an icon of local identity.

 

 

Flea Market

 

The Flea Market of Buenos Aires, known for its historical richness and bohemian atmosphere, was established in the early 20th century as a place where the past and present uniquely converge. Located in the Palermo neighborhood, this market earned its name from the variety of curious and ancient objects that can be found in its labyrinthine corridors. What began as an informal selling point among neighbors quickly became a magnet for collectors, artists, and curious individuals, who explore everything from antique furniture and rare books to street art and unique crafts. Over the decades, the Flea Market has maintained its essence as a haven for lovers of vintage and unique items, adapting to modern trends without losing its historical charm.

 

 

Belgrano Market

 

The Belgrano Market, located in the eponymous neighborhood of Buenos Aires, Argentina, is a historic enclave that encapsulates the essence of urban life in Buenos Aires. Since its opening in the 19th century, it has been a vital center for the local community, offering a unique blend of fresh products, traditional gastronomy, and a welcoming atmosphere that reflects the neighborhood's identity. Its architecture combines classic elements with modern ones, creating a space where traders, residents, and visitors converge in search of fresh ingredients for daily cooking or gourmet delights. Over the years, the Belgrano Market has maintained its cultural and commercial relevance, adapting to the city's changes without losing its distinctive character.

 

 

It is essential to know the points mentioned above to explore the endless opportunities that Buenos Aires offers in terms of gastronomy and markets. A homemade meal made with ingredients from all over the world serves as an excuse to get to what really matters: spending time with family.






Colon Theater

There are emblematic spots in the city of Buenos Aires, places that one must almost obligatorily visit if the goal is to thoroughly understand the country's culture. The list of such places can be diverse, for example: the Museum of Decorative Arts, the Barolo Palace, the Casa Rosada, and the Cabildo. Like any major city, the Argentine capital offers all these places close to each other, making visiting them extremely easy.

 

There is one place in particular that stands out above the rest: the Teatro Colón. This venue reflects the country's idiosyncrasy, making a visit there a cultural journey into the past. For this reason, in the following article, we will tell you the history of the great Argentine theater, its characteristics, and more.

 

History

 

The idea emerged in the second half of the 19th century, in a context of growth and modernization of the city. Inaugurated in 1857, the first Teatro Colón was located in front of the Plaza de Mayo, but soon that location became small and obsolete.

 

In 1888, the construction of a larger theater began on a plot of land bounded by Cerrito, Viamonte, Tucumán, and Libertad streets. The Italian architect Francesco Tamburini was in charge of the initial project. After the architect's death in 1891, his disciple Víctor Meano continued the work. Later, the Belgian Jules Dormal joined the project and made significant contributions.

 

On May 25, 1908, the new Teatro Colón was inaugurated with a performance of Giuseppe Verdi's opera "Aida." Since its opening, the theater has hosted numerous opera, ballet, and symphonic concert performances and has welcomed some of the world's greatest artists.

 

 

Architecture and Characteristics

 

The building is a jewel of architecture and engineering, with an eclectic style that combines Renaissance, Baroque, and Classical elements. The main hall is horseshoe-shaped, contributing to its exceptional acoustics, considered one of the best in the world. The theater has a capacity for around 2,500 spectators and features an orchestra pit that can accommodate more than 100 musicians. Additionally, it has a dome decorated by the Argentine painter Raúl Soldi, which is one of its most distinctive features.

 

Over the years, the Teatro Colón has undergone several renovations and restorations to maintain its splendor. One of the most significant took place between 2006 and 2010 when the theater was closed for a complete renovation that included the modernization of its technical facilities and the restoration of its architectural and decorative elements.

 

Practical Information

 

Although some people prefer to improvise their trips, many others want everything organized in advance. For those people, we provide a list of tips below to help them get to know this iconic place.

 

  • Schedules and Tickets: Guided tours are usually available every day, with several schedules throughout the day. It is advisable to book tickets in advance, especially during the high season or on special dates.

  • Languages: Guided tours are offered in several languages, including Spanish and English, to cater to tourists from different parts of the world.

  • Accessibility: The Teatro Colón has facilities for people with reduced mobility, ensuring that all visitors can enjoy the experience.

  • Excursions: Tangol offers a unique walking tour where you can not only tour the city but also choose the Teatro Colón as a point of interest. By taking this route, tourists can enjoy a guided tour of the venue, including the Main Hall, the Main Foyer, the Gallery of Busts, and the Golden Hall.

 

 

The Teatro Colón remains a premier cultural center today, offering a varied program of opera, ballet, and concerts, and continues to attract artists and audiences from all over the world.





San Telmo, That Porteña Mix

Near the House Rosada is the oldest and most bohemian neighborhood in the Federal Capital. Among antique dealers and traditional coffee shops, you still feel a genuine Buenos Aires there.

Colonial houses, cobbled streets and lanterns that illuminate narrow sidewalks are part of the landscape that San Telmo offers. Despite the real estate boom and the landing of fashion, art and gastronomy venues that were modernizing the appearance of the area, even today the neighborhood beats to the rhythm of its history. Its suburban and nostalgic air, typical of Buenos Aires, is combined with the most modern and contemporary cultural trends.

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Comprised of the streets Chile, Defensa and Piedras and the avenues Ingeniero Huergo, Brazil, Paseo Colón, Martín García y Caseros, the district owes its name the Parish of San Pedro González Telmo. However, originally, the land known as El Alto due to its high geography was a port area. & nbsp; Calle Real, today Defensa, was the busiest as it connected the banks of the Riachuelo, where the port was , with the Plaza Mayor (currently Plaza de Mayo). & nbsp; Its first settlers settled strategically on that road and at the end of the 18th century in a wasteland they established a stop for the carts that transported the merchandise. That place today is Plaza Coronel Dorrego, the neuralgic center of the neighborhood, and a key point to understand part of Argentine history. Explore the history of San Telmo with the Walking CityTours of Tangol.

The square was the scene for the oath of independence of the residents of Buenos Aires, signed in Tucumán in 1816, but it also became the epicenter from from which the most traditional patrician families of Buenos Aires were established. Its colonial mansions marked the architectural profile of the neighborhood, although the identity of the commune was the product of the working and poor classes.

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In 1871, with the yellow fever epidemic, the wealthiest residents moved north of the city and their homes became tenements. Immigrants, who at that time arrived in large contingents from different parts of Europe, rented the rooms of these huge houses to live with their families until they could progress, sharing with the others kitchen, bathroom and patio. Thus, to the overcrowding, the mixture of cultures, languages and sounds that is still conserved was added, to the point that tango and candombe are still heard on its cobblestone streets, while walking between churches of different origins and religions .

While the neighborhood was declining and was acquiring its definitive air of stately humility, the Mercado del Comercio operated in the plaza. Although this was demolished in 1897 when the current San Telmo Market was inaugurated, the perimeter always kept alive that universe of buying and selling with the creation in 1970 of the Fair of Old Things and Antiques (open every weekend) . Its inauguration finished sealing the essence of the jurisdiction, since, from its appearance, antique dealers began to proliferate in all the surroundings. Try the experience of the Bicycle Tours in the south of the City.

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Since then, they have widened avenues and demolished historical places (including the Casa del Naranjo, the oldest in the city, dating from the 17th century), but San Telmo has not lost its original perfume. Not only because many constructions with patrimonial value still exist, such as the Minimum House, the Old Warehouse or the House of the Ezeiza, among others, but also because its old man shops and tanguerías have managed to metabolize contemporary times. As a fusion space that knew how to be, rich and poor at the same time, the neighborhood, margin and center of the city, houses modern art museums and exclusive design workshops, along with warehouses and used fairs; as well as the classic cafes, in the style of Poetry, El Federal or El Británico, coexist with signature restaurants. This cocktail certainly outlines our personality. & Nbsp;

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San Telmo, A Porteño Mix

One of the oldest and most bohemian neighborhoods of Buenos Aires City lies near Casa Rosada. Among antique shops and traditional cafes, San Telmo still offers an authentic taste of Buenos Aires.

Colonial houses, cobblestone streets, and old-fashioned street lamps, which light up narrow sidewalks, make up San Telmo’s landscape. Despite the housing boom and the opening of trendy boutiques, art galleries, and restaurants, which have modernized the neighborhood’s appearance, San Telmo keeps the reminiscence of its history. Its suburban and nostalgic atmosphere—a typical characteristic of porteños—blends into the most modern and contemporary cultural trends.
Bounded by Chile, Defensa, and Piedras Streets, and Ingeniero Huergo, Brasil, Paseo Colón, Martín García, and Caseros Avenues, the district owes its name to San Pedro González Telmo Parish. However, originally, the land known as Alto—due to its elevated geography—was a port area. Real Street, today Defensa, used to be the busiest street because it connected the riverbank, where the port was, with Plaza Mayor (today Plaza de Mayo). Its first inhabitants settled down strategically on this road, and at the end of the 18th century, they set up a stop in an empty lot for horse-drawn carts used to carry goods. Today, that place is Plaza Coronel Dorrego, the neighborhood’s most important landmark and a key point to understand part of Argentina’s history.

The small square where the city’s neighbors took the oath of independence signed in Tucumán in 1816, also became the epicenter of the most traditional patrician families of Buenos Aires. Its large colonial houses shaped the architectural features of the neighborhood, although the community identity was built upon the poor and working classes.

With the yellow fever outbreak of 1871, the wealthiest residents moved to the north of the city, and their dwellings became tenement houses. The immigrants, who arrived in big waves from different parts of Europe at the time, rented the rooms of those huge houses to live with their families until they could get a better standard of living, sharing the kitchen, bathroom, and courtyard. Thus, the overcrowding added to the mixture of cultures, languages, and sounds that still remain in San Telmo, to the point that tango and candombe can still be heard today along its cobblestone streets lined with temples from different origins and religions.

While the neighborhood was falling into decline and shaping its final look of majestic modesty, the square used to serve as the Main Market. Although the market was demolished in 1897 when the current San Telmo Market was opened, the place kept alive the selling-buying concept with the creation of the Feria de Cosas Viejas y Antigüedades (Antiques and Vintage Fair) in 1970 (open every weekend). Its opening sealed the essence of the neighborhood; since it was set up, antiques dealers began to spread all over the area.

Since then, some avenues have been broadened and some historical places have been pulled down (including Casa del Naranjo, the oldest house of the city dating back to the 17th century), but San Telmo hasn’t lost its original flair. Not only because it still features some constructions with historic significance, such as Casa Mínima, Viejo Almacén, or Casa de los Ezeiza, but also because the neighborhood’s antiques, vintage and second-hand stores, as well as its tango parlors (tanguerías), have managed to blend into contemporaneity. As a fusion place, which was rich and poor at the same time, the neighborhood—the city’s edge and center—houses modern art museums and a variety of workshops of exclusive designs, together with grocery stores and flea markets; as well as traditional cafes such as La Poesía, El Federal, or El Británico, that coexist with signature restaurants. This cocktail certainly defines our personality in a few blocks. 





Used Book Fairs

IN THE CITY, STORIES PROLIFERATE AT LOW COST. READERS AND BOOKSELLERS COME TOGETHER IN THE MARKETS TO GIVE AND GET STORIES. IN ADDITION TO LITERATURE, IN EACH POSITION YOU CAN FIND AN EXPERIENCE. & NBSP;

BUENOS AIRES HAS KNOWN HOW TO BE THE SETTING AND HE IS ONE OF THE BEST PAGES IN LITERATURE, BUT HE WAS ALSO ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT PUBLISHING CENTERS IN LATIN AMERICA IN THE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIES. THE EDITORIAL BOOM WAS CLOSED BY THE 1976 MILITARY DICTATORSHIP, BUT THE REALITY IS THAT PORTEÑOS HAVE NEVER STOPPED READING. AMONG ROMANTICS, SOME PREFER BOOKSTORES OPEN UNTIL LATE ON CORRIENTES STREET, ALTHOUGH OTHERS FIND THEIR PLACE IN THE WORLD AT USED FAIRS. & NBSP;

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THE STALLS OF THE RIVADAVIA AND CENTENARIO PARKS, LOCATED IN THE CABALLITO NEIGHBORHOOD, AS WELL AS THOSE OF PLAZA ITALIA, IN THE HEART OF PALERMO, ARE THE MOST POPULAR. IN THE THREE WALKS, EACH WITH ITS IDENTITY AND IMPRINT, YOU CAN BUY NEW AND OLD COPIES AT CHEAPER PRICES. HOWEVER, MORE THAN THE SALES, AMONG THE NOVELTIES, THE CLASSICS AND THE ODDITIES THAT COEXIST WAITING TO BE THE NEXT GREAT FIND, WHAT YOU ACQUIRE ARE MOMENTS AND EXPERIENCES. & NBSP;
CHAT WITH THE BOOKSELLERS, HAGGLING AND RECOMMENDATIONS, GETTING A BOOK THERE IS MORE THAN A BUYING AND SELLING TRANSACTION. A SPECIAL PLACE FOR TREASURE HUNTERS OR NOSTALGICS, IN THESE FAIRS, IN ADDITION, THE PAPER HAS ITS COLOR, SMELL AND HISTORY. MIGRANT CAT AROMAS, WITH A HINT OF CONFINEMENT AND SEPIA SCENTS ARE FELT IN THE HALLWAYS, WHERE THE DEDICATED PAGES AND UNDERLINED PHRASES MARK OTHER SENSIBILITIES AND TEMPORALITIES. & NBSP;
SPACES IN WHICH OTHER PEOPLE'S STORIES AND THEIR OWN MIX, THE USED MARKETS THUS BUILD A CITY OF TALES. & NBSP;





The 8 Historic Coffees of Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires owes much of its charm to its legendary coffees. The city of Buenos Aires has more than 20 notable bars that make up the Cultural Heritage of the city. The notable bars of Buenos Aires are the living history of the city: for its age and architectural value, for being the scene of relevant historical and cultural events. You can find them in different neighborhoods of the city but especially in the most classic area: Almagro, San Telmo, San Nicolas, La Boca and Recoleta.










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