Completing the W Trek is a once-in-a-lifetime experience that
you will never forget. The spectacular scenery of Torres del Paine, where you
will view the towers the park is named after, the Grey Glacier and the French
Valley will be a lasting memory.
What is the W trek
The W trek is located in Torres Del Paine national park in Chilean
Patagonia and is undoubtedly one of the best hikes in the region. The
trek is a 100km route that can be followed in either direction. Rather than
being a circular route, it is in the shape of a W (hence the name!), so it does
involve some walking back on yourself.
This isn’t one of the most challenging hikes in South
America, which thankfully makes it accessible to many people, but you will
still need to be of good fitness. You won’t get lost because the trails are
well-used, but make sure you stick to the trail so you don’t cause erosion and
destruction. The good infrastructure along the route
The scenery is breathtaking and however you choose to do the W trek, with
or without a tour, camping or lodging, east to west or west to east, it will
stick with you forever.
When to hike the W trek
The busiest time with the best weather is from December to late
March, during these peak season months the temperatures are highest but so are
the winds. The months of April and May are autumn, with beautiful colours but
temperatures are dropping. October and November are spring months with
fantastic wildflower blooms. Winter is the remaining months, which can bring
challenging weather conditions; if you choose these months then you must hike
with a guide.
Many tours only operate in the summer months which is when most people
visit. If you choose to go outside of these months, you will still find tours,
but some facilities may be closed. Whenever you choose the weather in Patagonia
can dramatically and suddenly change and you could
experience any season at any time, so be prepared for this!
Reaching the W trek
The W trek can be started and finished in two places, Paine Grande and
Hotel Las Torres. Both of these locations must be reached by first entering the
park and paying the entrance fee. From the entrance, you can travel by bus and
catamaran to reach Paine Grande and by walking or on foot to Hotel Las Torres.
The entrance to the park is best reached from Puerto Natales as it is a
short transfer away. Puerto Natales has facilities that will keep you occupied
for a day or two before or after you finish the hiking. To get to Puerto
Natales you can travel by bus from Punta Arenas or El Calafate, both of which
connect to many cities across South America.
Where to stay on the W trek
The bonus of hiking the W trek is that you get to see some of the best
scenery in South America, without having to travel deep into the wilderness
without any facilities. The W trek is a hike suitable for those who don’t like
camping.
Refugios are the option for those not fond of camping. Four refugios that
provide a bed in a shared dorm of up to 8 people. When staying at refugios you
have the option to book all of your meals too, which means you don’t have to
carry anything with you on the trek! They are a social atmosphere and a nice
place to share a drink with other hikers from all over the world.
Campsites are available at each location which must be booked in advance.
At these campsites, you even have the option to hire equipment so you don’t
have to carry it. If you are on a tight budget and already have the equipment,
then pre-book your space and pitch upon arrival.
Itinerary
You can complete the W trek from either direction, but I will explain it
from West to East.
Day 1
From Puerto Natales, you will arrive at the park entrance where you will
pay the entrance fee in Chilean pesos. From here you will travel by bus to
Pudeto and take the catamaran across the Pehoe lake to Paine Grande. If you
arrive early enough, begin the hike up to Refugio Grey and the Grey Glacier.
This section takes about 3 to 4 hours from Paine Grande. Make sure you stop to
enjoy the lookouts along the way. You will spend the night at Refugio Grey on
the shores of Lago Grey in the pre-booked accommodation of your choice.
Day 2
Starting early you can walk further up from Refugio Grey to get fantastic
views above the grey glacier. This will take you about
1.5 hours and after this, you can head back to Refugio Grey, this, of course,
is optional. Once you are back in Refugio Grey you can pack your bag and head down
to Refugio Paine Grande to spend the night.
Day 3
Another early start will ensure you make the most of the day. Head to
Campamento Italiano from Paine Grande, which will take about 2 hours and here
you can leave your belongings. Take a daypack and hike to
Mirador Frances of the French Valley which will take about 2.5 hours. Once
you’ve returned to Campamento Italiano, pick up your stuff and head to Refugio
Los Cuernos about 2 hours east.
Day 4
After 3 days of hiking, this is sadly the last full day! This part will
take in what the park is named after, the Torres (towers). From Los Cuernos
head up to Refugio Chileno, walking alongside the turquoise waters of Lago
Nordenskjöld. This will take about 5 hours from Los Cuernos and you can spend
your final night here. You can choose to head up to the base
of the towers that afternoon, or the next morning, or even both!
Day 5
Get up before sunrise if you want fantastic
scenery and quiet paths. If you are lucky to catch the sunrise on a good day,
the colours will be amazing. Head back
down after sunrise to collect your belongings from Refugio Chileno and then
walk down to Hotel Las Torres where you can catch a bus back to the entrance of
the park and then onwards to Puerto Natales.
Tips for the planning and doing the hike
-
Torres del Paine is undeniably beautiful, which
means it is very popular. You must reserve your tour or lodging in
advance to ensure you can get what you want.
- Don’t carry too much, if you are lucky enough to be
staying at the refugios then you won’t need a tent and you won’t even need to
take food as they offer meals including a packed lunch. The water at all sites
is also good for drinking, so don’t worry about
carrying extra water.
-
Direction doesn’t matter, east to west or
west to east, you choose.
-
If you choose to camp then you must do so at designated
campsites that are to be booked before arrival.
-
Arrive in Puerto Natales the day before you leave
for the W trek so that you can purchase any last-minute items for the hike!
- Most tours don’t include the entrance
fee for the national park as this is subject to change but be prepared to
pay the fee in Chilean pesos and bring the cash for this.
- Book insurance!!!! Even though this is not
a highly strenuous hike, the terrain is still rough and accidents can happen.
Having travel insurance will make sure you are protected if something does
happen.
Tangol tours
Tangol offers two tours, the classic circuit (5 days/4
nights) and the express circuit (4 days/3
nights). These tours both depart from and return to Puerto Natales, the main
arrival base closest to the national park.
Both of these tours take in all of the famous sights of the W trek
and are full board, so they include breakfast, lunch and dinner. Each night
includes accommodation at a refugio, so you don’t need to carry a tent with
you. These tours are perfect for those who want a planned trip that includes
meals, accommodation and transfers.